In Germany this display is available in about 10 days.
I can see, in the german part of the forum, that a few people have their hands on it now.
I just struggle with reading german, and using an translator like babelfish almost makes it worse.
If someone could be so kind to sum up what the first impressions of the monitor is.
Is it really 'all that', and would it be a better buy, than for example vp201b S-IPS 16ms ? (disregarding the size and price difference).
I would be happy if someone pointed out the drawbacks of these new overdrive technologies. I know some german but I have a hard time weeding out the details about such occurences when reading those posts.
One obvious drawback would be that the color detail will drop if there is fast updates on the screen. But what in effect would that be? That a game like UT will be running in 16 bit color all the time or just part of the screen in some frames etc. Will some movies be all low color?
I've seen some talk about a 'twinkling' effect on some panels which has overdrive. But I dont understand what they mean by that. And as far as I know ppl talk about 'twinkling' in other panels than overdrive ones.
OK, since the help on the subject was very little, i simply bought me one.
And so far im pretty happy with it, but ive only had it for about 2 hours so far.
But it's definitely VERY fast compared to my about 2½-3 years old Viewsonic vx900 MVA 25 ms.
And no pixel errors what so ever.
Alright. Seems like this monitor is a quite good choice for the moment. Only competition in that pricerange is the models by Xerox, FSC and Ilyama. But the latter three models lower availability. Havent seen the Ilyama models anywhere.
Although the specs for the new Samsungs looks better, it doesent matter since availability is quite important when you want to buy things. And their models will probably be set at a higher price.
Btw. I saw the VX900 a long time ago. How does the newer model compare to that one image-wise disregarding update speed?
That would be good info - if you undestand french, that is.
I've noticed 2 things that are different with this mva , compared to my old mva.
One is the colors:
I have both monitors connected at the same time ,and they are right next to eachother (extended desktop).
If i take a picture like this , and slide it from one monitor to the other, there is an big difference in the colors.And its the old monitor that displays the nicest colors.
She looks more natural tanned , and it's like there are more color dept on the 25 ms mva. It's not something i seem to be able to adjust in the OSD. Ofcourse there is color adjust options, and ive tried alot, but no matter what, she still looks more ''alive'' on the old monitor.
Second is related to pixels :
Whenever there is action on the screen, it's like the picture becomes ''pixelated'' (dont know a better word for it).
It is more on some colors.
Like every little pixel stands out.
If i am more than 1 meter away its not visible any more.
This i can see in games, movies, or just when moving around a window on the desktop.
All this being said, i am still quite happy with the monitor, especially because of the speed of the respons time and good view angles.
Tom's Hardware says the overdrive, due to its nature, can cause some video noise in moving graphics.
The Hardware.fr VP191 review talk about color artifacts in particular DVD scene.
However the final evaluation is very positive.
It would be very interesting to compare the AU Optronics solution (VP191) with the Samsung counterpart (Fujitsu-Siemens P19-2 or Eizo L778 ).
I hope Prad will make this wish a reality...
There's an english translation of the review out now on Tomshardware.com!
Since this is an 8 Bit display you need to use correct settings to display all 16,7 mio. colors.
- set contrast 2 ticks higher than the middle position (19 ticks count from 0).
- set color temperature to "user defined" and lower all three colord (red, green, blue) by 1 tick below the maximum.
- set the brightness as high or low as you like, but 70% should be a good value, which is 32 ticks count from 0 (or exactly mark no. 18 of 25 on the displayed scale).
You may vary the colors to your liking, but be aware that any setting different from the above means losing color informations (results in less than 16,7 mio. colors being displayed). Also when you change color temperature you have to set a new contrast accordingly. In fact the contrast setting on the VP191 doesn't really work like you'd expect from contrast at all. It's just useful for getting perfect color variations when changing color settings.
The main advantage of a 10 Bit display vs 8 Bit is that with the 10 Bit one you can vary color- and gamma-settings without having to decrease the total no. of colors displayed. 10 Bit displays also only display 16,7 mio. colors (which also is the RGB range of your PC), but they can chose those 16,7 mio. out of 1,07 billion, which gives you more freedom to chose your personal settings. Some medical device even need 12 Bit displays for displaying X-Ray scans in grayscales by the way.
The average Joe (like me) wont need that though, unless you are doing really professional photo-editing. Even though every single tick on the VP191 when decreasing one of the basic colors (5 out of 256 shades are thrown away per tick) translates into a total of 327680 colors less, it still leaves you with 16,x mio. colors to work with.
You can also use your graphic-card settings instead for decreasing the shades by 1 out of 256, giving you more control. 1 shade less means 65535 colors less in total.
Nice info! Thanks man.
I've set up mine according to your advice, and i must admit that you really hit that spot on.
It actually made me a bit more happy with my monitor.
Thanks for that, but how did you figure it out ?
By using several screen tests (like CT-Monitortest) and nearly crawling into the display with my eyes.
There is one screen showing all three basic color plus grey. Going from the center of the screen to the edged, from black to full color. This is where you can see every change of colors even at the darkest shades for example.
But you really have to find the right angle and position to be able to differenciate between black and the darkest shades of any color, but it's clearly visible then.
The full screen greyscale gives you a good view of how contrast and colors can lead to visible steps when being set to wrong relations.
Btw, generally don't use software-tools or graphicdriver-settings for basic settings. This always leads to a decrease in no. of colors being displayed.
Only use the advanced gamma-setting per single color-channel to decrease single channels slightly, if you really need total control and want to change color temperature more to your liking.
I rather prefer having the full scale of 16,7 mio. color and live with the given colors I get then. I find them quite ok, with a little warmth in them, but not too much. Give me some more tries and I have my Canon Pixma 4000 in perfect line to print the same colors that are seen on screen.
Ah, something important: Don't use a color profile (ICC) once you set up anything else than the factory settings. The ICC-profile coming with the driver-disc is made only for the factory settings. Once you change anything but brightness it becomes useless! You need special hardware to set up your own profiles, so just remove everything from the color managment tab of your display settings.
If you're interested in a comparison of the range of visible color for different displays (VP191, Eizo, Fujitsu-Siemens, Samsung), plus a comparison with sRGB colors, have a look at this (german) article of mine (pics included): Explanation: Range of Colours (8 Bit vs 10 Bit)
The grid shown on the pics is the standard sRGB colorspace, which is used by many scanners and digital cams. You may notice that the P19-2 and the L368 (at 6500K) use exactly the same colorspace at factory settings.
The VP191 uses a slightly different color space, with considerably less magenta, but more red and yellow, and slightly more blue and cyan. That can be a drawback when working with sRGB scanners and printer, since you don't have exactly the same colors. But don't forget that sRGB is just a standard, not the optimum.
sRGB seems sport too much magenta for my taste anyway, and that opinion seems to be shared by all the other display manufacturers. Nearly every color profile of the other displays cuts down magenta for the sake of more yellow and cyan.
The bigger the colorspace the broader the steppings btw. since the total no. of colors being displayed cannot be more than 16,7. Look at the factory settings of the Eizo L778, it nearly seems to have a smaller colorspace than sRGB, but that also means that it has smaller steppings in between the colors.
Have fun and take care!
You are now my color-God.
Whatever you say goes.
Hi Tm101, it seems that you posess a lot of knowledge in LCD displays, maybe you can check this thread Help!? 17" LCD for photography work and give some advice about monitor I should look into, as my main aim is photo editing therefore I'm looking for good colors but I'm limited on funds.(and I also couldn't choose models from Samsung as they had no controls on monitor and I'm using Linux OS).
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